In what appears to be an annual pilgrimage, I travelled to Kenya in June for a week. Although it was not all play, with some work to be done in Nairobi afterwards, I was fortunate to spend four nights up north in the Laikipia and Samburu districts. The contrast between each destination could not be more glaring, in what must be one of the most interesting and diverse countries.
The first stop, after meeting Pete and Troy in Nairobi, was Ol Pejeta Conservancy. This is a 90,000 acre non-profit conservancy owned by a local trust, that is home to land uses of all sorts - both wheat farming and herds comprising up to 6-7000 cattle. Despite that, it is also an incredibly important wildlife conservation area, holding significant population of big game. This includes more than 100 black rhino, elephant and buffalo and numerous other endangered antelope including Grevy's zebra, Jackson's hartebeest, wild dog and cheetah. It provides a shining example, amongst others in Kenya, of how man can live and prosper without it coming at the expense of the natural environment.
Ol Pejeta is most famous for its northern white rhinos, being the only three of this subspecies remaining in the world. Once located across a band in central and East Africa, the population suffered a near-total extinction caused by poaching. Although with one male, Sudan, remaining, it is highly unlikely that this subspecies will survive as at 45 years old, Sudan's prospects of bearing young are remote (although IVF with the southern white population is ongoing).
The other main star at Ol Pejeta is Ringo, a baby southern white rhino that was abandoned by his mother at just a few-weeks of age. He was subsequently rescued and adopted by rangers, and is perhaps one of the cutest things going 'round. He seemed more intrigued by our Landcruiser than our selves, taking the opportunity to scratch his head and neck whilst either wiping the mud off his coat or trying to steal that from the Cruiser's bullbar.
The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary is also found within Ol Pejeta. Although not part of the chimp's natural forest range, the sanctuary was developed as a refuge for individuals rescued from circuses or private ownership, many of whom were physically, psychologically and even sexually abused. Taking a behind-the-scenes tour, it was an emotional and yet fascinating experience standing just centimetres from the chimps. The resemblance, if not as much in appearance as in behaviour, was striking and surprising despite my knowing how closely related we Homo sapiens are. And yet disturbingly, one could also see the effects of abuse in many individuals, either showing a look of fear in their eyes or swinging sticks and rocks in what can only be a defense response.
We were staying at Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, a simple and yet elegant camp within the conservancy. With each tent perched above the winding Ewaso Nyiro River ("brown water"), it was the ideal spot to get a dose of fresh air amongst the evening lion roars and visiting baboons and hippos. Only a short stop, our next destination was Samburu district further north.
