One of the most overlooked parts of Botswana, the Tuli Block refers to a strip of privately-owned farms in the east of the country. Its existence as private land in Botswana is unique enough: only 5% of land in Botswana is privately-held freehold land, with a further 25% owned by the state. In fact, most land (up to 70%) is tribal land which allows Batswana to obtain grants or leases, primarily for cattle grazing, that can be inherited but not sold or bought. The administrative rights to tribal land was only recently transferred to distinct Land Boards from the traditional chiefs who, to this day, remain an important part of society in Tswana and other indigenous cultures. It is a reminder of the importance of traditional culture and the fact that it is only now witnessing the embrace of globalisation. Tuli Block sits across a narrow strip that follows the natural flow of the Limpopo River, being the border with South Africa as well as the Shashe River from Zimbabwe. It was handed over by Chief Khama III (great-grandfather of the current President) of the former Bechuanaland Protectorate to Cecil Rhodes’ British South Africa Company in 1885, partly to extend the pan-African rail line but also to act as a defence against the threat of Boer invasion from South Africa.
Its existence changed rapidly in the 20th century, as the land began to be used as private farming. However it became apparent that the rocky outcrops and only seasonal rainfall and water security was not ideal for cattle grazing. It has now been reconverted back to its natural state as a wilderness area. Still privately held, some parts have been excised into some of the most dramatic, game-rich reserves in the region, including the Limpopo-Lipadi Private Game Reserve and Mashatu Game Reserve. However there are also more affordable, basic camp sites and lodges on some of the blocks, which remain largely owned by older European farmers.
The region has one of the largest elephant populations outside of the Chobe-Okavanago region, and is known for its healthy populations of lion and wild dogs that move with ease through the now fence-less strip.
Only 5 hours drive from Gaborone, I spent a long weekend at the Limpopo River Lodge which is one of the best value-for-money destinations I have yet encountered. Overlooking the Limpopo and its resident crocodiles and hippos, it is a self-catering although serviced lodge that provides the ideal level of flexibility. Along with four of my housemates, Ian, Pamela, Maryanne and Cam, we spent the days exploring this particular 'block' within Tuli, marvelling at the prolific Baobabs and doing our best to track the elephants, rhinos and hippos. Although the Limpopo water level was low, extensive rain just before our arrival in February meant it was a mammoth challenge spotting game in what is an incredibly green area at this time of the year. Nevertheless, it provides an excellent excuse to return in the drier months, to sit and wait by the watering holes for whatever decides to appear...
