I expect that many stop and marvel at Table Mountain each day. I hope the local Capetonians take a moment from time-to-time to appreciate the mountain range that follows the coast 60 km south to Cape Point. The front face of Table Mountain is famous, however I have come to also appreciate the back of the mountain (Back Table). Although Back Table does not have the distinctive flat ‘table top’, the landscape remains incredibly interesting. At the base lies the magnificent Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, perhaps one of the greatest legacies of colonial Cape Town. In October, all is in bloom – from the purple jacarandas to the native fynbos and masterful proteas. Kirstenbosch becomes a rainbow of colour as the skies begin to clear, the sun warms and the days grow longer throughout the spring months.
On a sunny day in October, I climbed Table Mountain from Kirstenbosch. There are actually many routes: from front to back, back to front, and from one end of the range to the other. The size of the escarpment is surprising; there are many distinct routes covering just the top of the range. Even more surprising was the contrast in landscapes, vegetation and view from the various peaks and gorges along the way.
After starting in Kirstenbosch, an incredibly steep climb through Nursery Ravine takes you to the top of the Back Table, characterised with alpine fynbos and the distinct rocky outcrops synonymous with the Cape region. You pass through a small patch of forest where the moss continues unbroken from tree to ground to rock. You come across two reservoirs, the deep blue water rhyming with the bright blue sky and pockets of cloud, yet contrasting with the granite and grassy backdrop. You carry on, up and over another peak, and yet another peak after that. A handful of ladders appear to assist with the steep climbs that would otherwise be unattainable. And finally, you begin the final trek across the table to the cableway station for a ride back down, or a perilous climb down the Platteklip Gorge.
Surely my feelings are clear by now: it is a beautiful hike in an incredible part of the world. The route taken lasted about 4 hours, and although I didn’t record the distance, the vertical climb surpassed 1,000 metres to the top of Table Mountain. It is incredibly quiet and hard to believe it is perched in the middle of South Africa’s largest cities. The downside on arrival though is of course the swarm of other tourists also soaking in the incredible views of Cape Town below, with its backdrop to the south, west and north. There are few places where you can enjoy the forest and vineyard greens, white sandy beaches and incredible cliff and gorge formations from the one vantage point.
Thanks to Lesala for joining me on the hike and taking some of these incredible photos.
