I visited Madikwe Game Reserve five years ago whilst travelling in South Africa. I remember it fondly, from the magnificent rhino and lion sightings (including an 18-strong pride), to the luxurious lodges set amongst the dry woodlands and plains on the outskirts of the Kalahari. The long, four-day weekend just gone therefore provided an ideal opportunity to return to Madikwe and relax after my first three weeks back at work (and they were busy weeks, not sure if I've ever worked so hard. Seriously). Madikwe covers an area that previously grazed heavily although with little success to its aridity. Now though, it is home to an incredibly wide range of wildlife including big cats (lion, cheetah, leopard), elephant, white and black rhino, wild dog and many others. Quite amazing how so much can live in such a dry environment, which is consistent with that of Gabs that I have previously described.
It was the lion and rhino that I was here to see. Oh, and relax by the pool, which was my first stop at The Bush House, a converted old farmhouse that was just 45 minutes drive from home (barely describable as a 'road-trip'). A tiny lodge with just six rooms, this was an incredible place to stay, due to its homeliness, warm staff and great food. I may spent a lot of time at the bar drinking too much red wine with the other guests twice my age, but I always find that insightful and the conversation interesting. It was also a place where I found solitude and a perfect calmness under a tree overlooking the dry, red plains.
One of the best things about The Bush House is the underground hide built at the front of the lodge, overlooking the waterhole. This brings your face to ground level as you marvel by the size, beauty and most of all, character of the elephants, rhino and antelope which pass by and drink just 3 metres from you. It was an incredible opportunity. The photos below do not do justice to just how close and impressive these big mammals were.
One of the highlights of the weekend was watching lions hunt. I made a lucky spot of one female 100 metres off the main road, who along with the three other females in the pride, were hunting a duo of kudu that were slowly approaching the pride. Although unsuccessful, it was a thrilling experience to sit and watch the event play out. It's 'game' time: can you spot the kudu below?
Rhinos would be one of my favourite animals. I'm not entirely sure why - I suspect it's some combination of their unique horn and body armour, impressive size and personality and (occasional) attitude. Here, on the game drives and by the lodge we were spoilt with rhino sightings at day and night. My heart rate stepped up a notch though, as two rhinos charged a herd of elephants which were being their normal selfish, standoffish selves at the dam.
The near decimation of both white and black rhino is something that really impacts me and has caught my attention in recent years. In Asia too, the surviving India, Javan and Sumatran rhinos are all facing similar pressures from poaching and habitat loss similar to their African cousins. Some may have seen recent updates from Saving the Survivors: this is one of the saddest things I have seen. Luckily however, Madikwe is one of the few places where rhino numbers (particularly black) are strong and have remained relatively untouched by poaching in recent years. Closer to home, I applaud the Botswana Government's commitment to its (controversial) shoot-to-kill policy against illegal poachers, a stance that has resulted in positive outcomes for both the rhinos and the state of Botswana.
Thanks for reading.