I’ve just returned from two weeks driving through Zambia and northern Botswana. This part of the trip was essentially planned on the fly as a result of, and leading to even more TIA moments. Nevertheless it was a fantastic couple of weeks, during which I met some fantastic people, witnessed some incredible landscapes and wildlife encounters and explored some lesser-known regions of southern Africa. I hope you enjoy reading the next four posts detailing the finer moments. Lusaka
Arriving in Lusaka, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect, perhaps in part as I appeared to be the only visitor who wasn’t an American missionary in the immigration line. More so though, I was to spend the next 10 days (give or take a few) in close confinements – vehicle and tent – with someone I had never met. Thankfully, Charlie, a friend of a friend from Jo’burg, and I got on really well, both having an art for saving any difficult decision (i.e. do we camp or lodge, which country do we visit tomorrow) until after sunset with beer in hand. It worked amazingly well in the end.
Lusaka was the gateway to some of Africa’s richest wildlife areas. I certainly wouldn’t recommend staying in town for long, as it has it not much of a happening place (yes, I know Gaborone is described in the same terms). However it was a nice introduction to southern Africa and good way to continue my new African adventures.
South Luangwa National Park
After a night in Lusaka, we were off on the first long drive to South Luangwa National Park. This park is definitely a ‘to-do’ for anyone travelling through the area. Although it is more difficult to get to (10 hour drive along pothole-ridden roads with thousands of unlit cyclists, cows, goats and broken down trucks), it’s a pretty special spot and definitely does not surprise me that it is rated in the ‘top 10’ things to do in Africa. Here are some of the highlights.
We started the first of two days in the park with a walking safari, a chilled way to check out the smaller living things and get up close to some of the African favourites – giraffe, waterbuck, and zebra. Before that though, we stumbled upon a pack of 18 African (painted) wild dog that were mid-feast having hunted an impala. Having not seen these in the wild before, I was pretty stoked and amazed by these beautiful creatures. They are quick and work as one unit to hunt their prey, reaching one of the higher speeds of land carnivores on the continent.
The wild dogs were back in action that afternoon, taking on a hyena that got a little close. A wild dog-hyena fight endured with a family of hyena emerging bringing their total count to seven. As the sun set, it became clear what was happening: the wild dog were doing a great job of hunting one impala at a time, which were subsequently being stolen by the increasing cast of hyena.
We stayed at Wildlife Camp, a campsite and lodge located about 8km from the Mfuwe Gate of the park. Although a fair distance, the campsite was fantastic, with our ‘permanent’ tent pitched above a fork of the Luangwa River with resident pod of hippo, monitor lizard and thieving vervet monkeys. The camp is a great example of an open, non-fenced campsite, with elephants and hippo spotted in camp at night, and, eerily, lion footprints obvious on the camp road the following morning.
(Yes, that monkey below did indeed steal my banana!)
South Luangwa is also rich in its cats, being known mostly for its abundant population of leopard. Notoriously shy and with a tendency to hide in the undergrowth and trees, we were lucky to spot one on the move, although I was quite quick enough with the camera. They are beautiful, slender animals although this certainly disguises their dangerous side, as the only land-based African mammal that routinely views humans as prey.
After two great days in the park, Charlie and I decided to end the day with a sundowner (aka sunset drink) overlooking the river. This plan ended abruptly though, as part of a pride of 5 lions had already laid claim to our spot, including three on the bank and two in a tree log on the sand. What a way to end the visit.
After two days we were off to Lusaka, before heading across the border into Zimbabwe. Or so I thought…